Open House at Renncenter Hockenheim

September 19, 2018

This is translation of the invitation to the Open House at the Renncenter in Hockenheim.

Date : 20. October 2018
From 13:00 (1 P.M.)
to 18:00 (6 PM)

Open House of the  Renncenter Hockenheim, Slot am Ring e.V.

Come and find out more about slot car racing (known in German-speaking countries as Carrerabahn and many English-speaking countries as Scalextric [Scalextrix {sic}]) and take the opportunity to have a go at a few laps on either of the tracks in the club! Kids and families welcome!

On this day the club members will be on hand to help you with:

  • Consultation for beginners
  • Slot Car exhibition
  • Guest races
  • Demonstration races

The Renncenter Hockenheim club members look forward to seeing you there

Date : 20. October 2018
From 13:00 (1 P.M.)
to 18:00 (6 PM)

Note from SlotCarp aka DVD3500 and Carrerarp: I will have a small Scalextric ARC PRO/ARC AIR track set up for those who may be interested in that as well.

 

 

 

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Scalextric ARC ONE Powerbase Review (Deutsche Version weiter unten)

June 17, 2015
  1. Actual Review
  2. Packaging and Quick Start Guide
  3. Setting up the track and firing it up
  4. First run
  5. Digging into the APP
  6. Quick Race and Other Racing Modes
  7. Suggestions
  8. Conclusion
  9. Deutsch

Please be sure to read the About Me section before continuing. 🙂 Many thanks!

Here are also a few reviews that inspired me to write this up. The also give a good overview of what Scalextric ARC One is:

DmooreSlotReviews Part 1 and Part 2

Official Scalextric Arc One Videos

Greg Gaub’s ARC ONE review

Alfie Dwwberry’s ARC One Review

Short Slot Magazine Intro to ARC

Toysmania2014 with a close up view of the kit

RecumboCars ARC ONE Review (probably the best review IMHO)

Older Pockilint Scalextric RCS (!) review

The 10 second review: This is a great product and thanks to its upgradeability well worth a look!

The actual review:

I decided to get the ARC ONE powerbase as there was a very good deal on Amazon.co.uk and since I have plug adapters for continental Europe I decided to go for it. I was actually hoping to hold out for the ARC AIR and eventually the ARC PRO but frequent requests for information on their release has shown that it will be some time before either of those are released.

Packaging and Quick Start Guide:

The kit is well finished using all cardboard and only a few plastic bags. Unpacking and overall set up is fine. The Quick Start Guide is in multiple languages including German , French, Spanish, Italian and Dutch (and of course English).

There is a description of the hand controllers where I think there is a missed opportunity to explain how the trigger resistance setting is adjusted. Maybe the fact that matching up the dots means maximum resistance (i.e. slowest) is some international standard but until I actually experimented with it it wasn’t obvious to me. More on the controllers later


The Guide implies that at least a standard straight should be in front of powerbase (the normal ARC ONE set actually comes with a starting grid straight) and that is necessary because of the controllers having no brakes. (see below)

One other thing not mentioned in the troubleshooting section is that the system only works with black guide blades in the cars. I nearly returned my set until I remembered reading in some forum that blue guides don’t work. Again, more below


Setting up the track and firing it up:

I am using a first generation Apple Ipad Mini. I find the size of the Mini perfect as it is large enough to see everything yet small enough to not block the view of the track. I have a protective cover with a flap on mine but I was able to put it in the cradle without removing the cover: much appreciated!

I am in the middle of redoing my workroom so I only had a small coffee table available to set up a simple oval using half R1 and half R2 curves and no lane switching. I also put barriers i.e. guardrails directly on the track so I ride the rails and concentrate on testing instead of driving.

The straight the powerbase is attached to is double length straight and almost the whole length is taken up with the pit lane (which is a good thing, more later).

Plugging in the controllers and power pack is easy and cannot be done “wrong”. The controllers are the smaller , pistol-shaped “START” kind and not the old “telephone “ones. Some users have complained about the size of the controllers but for me and my son they are fine.

They have an adjustment screw on the side that prevents the trigger from being held down to full throttle. While a welcome feature, it did take me a few moments to understand how they work. The screw is very small and feels very fragile and I was not sure in which direction to turn it to adjust it. A crescendo symbol (like on most volume buttons) or numbers i.e. 1 and 9 or 1 to 9 would have idiot proofed them (and I consider myself quite a big idiot). I also found the adjustment to not work 100% the same. I raced a car on the inside and adjusted the throttle so it could be run “full power” without deslotting. I then switched the controller to the outside lane and tested again and the car barely moved. Since I could ride the rails I could increase power but that basically meant the outside car was much faster on the straights than the other car. I also did the same with the other throttle had a similar result but the setting was slightly different i.e. the red controller was set to 1 o’clock and 3 minutes and the green one set to 1 o’clock and 2 minutes. It is only a different of a millimeter but I found it odd that the tolerances would be that different.

One other problem is that each car is different, of course, and adjusting the speed was sometimes very fiddly. For example one car would deslot at the first turn. It deslotted so bad it actually rolled. So I kept reducing the power to the point it wouldn’t deslot but then it wouldn’t actually start. Now this could be due to the fact that the first turn is an R1 but it was annoying. I also felt that when one car deslotted the other got a power surge. I have actually had more luck using a dimmer in the wall socket to ensure that the cars do not get too much power.

The controllers have no brakes and my cars glide for a good standard straight before coming to a halt. This is why the pit being so long is a good thing and putting a standard straight in front to give you more time to let off. You have to let off well before and let the car slide to a stop. Kids will have to practice this a lot to get it right or you may want to allow them to just put their hand at the end of the pit to make sure the cars stop. If you overshoot the pits the system does not recognize the car if you push it backwards into the pits. You have to go another round. There is a workaround for the brakes though (see below)

First run:

I of course did a few laps without turning on the ARC ONE APP first. My cars had been packed away for a few months and the braids are fairly worn so it took some coaxing to get them to run well. I tested a Scaley Porsche GT3, Mercedes CLK, Opel V8 DTM, Ford Taurus from the Crash and Bash set , SCX NASCAR Chevy Monte Carlo (1998 version), Artin /Cartronic DTM car, Carrera Go! Formula one (Sebastian Vettel Red Bull), and a Carrera Evolution Williams Formula One car.

I fired up the APP and was scared when it didn’t connect. Then I realized you have to hit the “Let’s Race” button and the Bluetooth connection happened immediately. It seems the connection is only live when you are at the main menu and beyond.

I selected Quick Race and then Driver One and somehow got to a controller calibration screen. It told me to race the car. I started racing and then it asked if the car was moving and to answer Yes or No. Unfortunately hitting Yes or No didn’t make anything happen. I have not been able to find this screen again and I don’t know what it is good for.

I selected a 10 Lap race and took off. At about 7 laps I realized that the laps weren’t counting. I tried the troubleshooting guide and restarted the powerbase, the APP etc. That’s when I remembered the problem with the blue guides. I tried a car with a black guide and voilà the laps started worked! I tried painting some blue guides black and while it worked in 1 of the 2 cases even on the case it did it work the paint rubbed off after about 100 laps and having paint chips in the slot is probably not wise. For the cost of black guides it is not worth the hassle.

I proceeded to test all the cars and the all worked as long as they had black guide blades. The Carrera GO! Car’s guide pin is too thick for the SPORT track so it has to be filed down. I actually have a box of pins that I swap if I use Carrera track. The Artin/Cartonic car has a white pin and lap counting would not work at all. It is technically a 6 volt car so I tried to stay below 1/3 throttle. Strangely though if you did go over 1/3 throttle the APP started going crazy claiming both cars were in the pits and going around about 4 laps a second. The cars have no resistor or diodes on the motors so I am thinking that they are generating some sort of interference or radiation that causes the sensors go wacky. Lap counting on the Artin/Cartronic car did not work even after painting the guide pin black. I was planning on replacing the motors with 14 Volt motors that have a resistor so once I do that I will see if my theory is correct. There is a great guide on putting Scaley guide blades on Artin/Cartronic cars.

I have some Scaley Micro cars I have not tried yet as they are wired the other way round and won’t run in the correct direction (clockwise) for ARC to work. I will give that a try though soon.

One problem I have had both with dead spot and infra red (IR) systems is that they miss laps or count double. The dead strip system I have on the Tyco track seems to miss laps with some cars and the IR system I have with my Carrera counter reacts to every shadow in the room so even when someone goes to pick up a deslotted car it counts a lap if a shadow goes over it. I purposely tried to trick the ARC ONE and I can say it worked perfectly ! British engineering!

Pitting and keeping track of the race is extremely easy. One slightly disappointing thing is that if you don’t pit when you are supposed to a message “disqualified “ but you are allowed to continue racing (though times and laps are no longer counted). Other analog pit stop sets make the car stutter or stop. Given how the ARC ONE is wired though I doubt this will ever be possible.

It really does not take long to get used to the ARC System. When I compare it to other analog systems with pit stops it is easier to hit the pits and the automatic refuel and tire swapping make it a really fun addition to the overall experience.

Digging into the APP

Installing the free APP is a breeze. A registration screen appears that is easy to fill out. Strangely though it does reappear from time to time even after it has been filled out.

I quickly tested each type of race available on the ARC ONE and they all worked flawlessly. I highly recommend modifying the Driver box to at least have a picture of a helmet as even on my iPad Mini the text is small and in the heat of battle you can’t always be sure who is on top. It is straightforward and quick. You can even upload picture of your car and use it as a symbol as well but the pictures have to be on the device.

There is some room for improvements though.

Quick Race:

This was the very first type of race I selected. Since I had not used the APP before I had to hit create race. All setting are self-explanatory or can be explained use the yellow question mark (?) in the green dot in the lower-right hand corner.

One thing that is interesting is that when you select and create other types of races, e.g. Grand Prix or Endurance they automatically are added to your Quick Race menu. I have not figured out a way to name the races so after creating several I start to lose track what the differences between the races are. For example if I start a Grand Prix with 20 laps and no tire wear and then set up another Grand Prix with 50 laps and tire wear all I see in the Quick Race list is #1 Grand Prix (2 drivers), #2 Grand Prix (2 drivers) etc. A way of renaming the races would really make things “quick”. You could go into the menu and select GP, 20 Laps, No fuel , for example.

Grand Prix, Endurance & Drag Race:

As noted, these all work as described without a problem. The only issue is that unless you use one of the standard i.e. boxset Scalextric layouts you will not get an average or top speed readout. You can, of course rebuild these tracks using the Track Viewer option in the menu and get a readout as to exactly what parts make up the track. Strangely, even though you have to tell the APP how long your Drag Strip is it doesn’t calculate the speed either.

Suggestions:

First: From a programming standpoint I think a little update could go a long way. It would be good to be able to jump to the track view from the Choose Track screen directly. Currently you have to select My Garage and then Track Viewer to see what parts make up a track. This way you don’t have to leave the race menu.

Second: Since the system knows which pieces make up which standard layout and determines speed from that it should be possible for you to type in which pieces you are using for your current, custom track and it can do the math to figure out the speed.

Third: Let the APP can tell you which pieces you are missing to create a standard layout. You can enter the pieces you have in the My Garage menu it but it shouldn’t be too hard for the APP to tell you which track layouts you have all the pieces for and which pieces you are missing. Sort of a ranking system for which layouts are possible. It could even give you analog alternatives to the digital tracks. Imagine it linking directly to the Scalextric site to buy the missing part? You can already have an e-mail sent to yourself with the parts list and they would simply need hyperlinking. I am going to get that idea copyrighted. J

Fourth: Give us a track editor! Since we are putting in all this stuff, you might as well give us a track editor. The free editor on scalextric.com is getting old and has trouble on some newer systems. My kids had tons of games (like puzzles) that are essentially the same concept. The crazy futurist in me sees you being able to just photograph the track piece and the system figuring out which one it is for you. Think of it as face recognition for track! While you are at it, once the track is set up you could even go for a virtual spin around it from various camera angles (there was a track editor that in the early 2000s that let you do that, it was actually designed for train sets but worked for slot cars too. You could even add scenery!!!) And if you want to get batman crazy you could actually have the cars “race” around the track while you race
 OK
 that might be a bit too hard


Fifth: Actually, this is a very small change and should be first but I think the first time you use the APP the very great help texts should pop up so you don’t have to hit the question mark. With a slightly complex APP like this I think a little bit of help to start would be good

Sixth: Localize. As I am writing this (June 2015) there is only a (British) English version of the APP. Since (a version) of English is my native language that is fine. But German, Spanish and French-language slotters who together I would bet are as big as the English-language slot car scene many really do not have a great grasp of English and it scares them off, particularly with young kids. Carrera releases almost everything in German and English and they are starting to make inroads in the APP controlled space. By the way: I would be willing to help out with French in German. J Oh and I also more or less understand Metric but Americans are still very much Inches and feet type of folks.

Seventh: Allow races to be named for quicker access in the Quick Race menu as mentioned before. This makes picking the race a lot faster.

Eighth: This is actually my least-important feature but I think it could be useful: When entering custom cars and tracks let us use the part number (usually starting with C) and pull the description. While I know most of the current catalog is in there in today’s world there are text analysis tools out there that could read a file from an older catalog and simply add them. Or even better go Wikipedia style on it and open

it up so the community can maintain the various cars and track bits!

Conclusion:

Do I regret buying the ARC ONE? Absolutely not. In fact, I already have 2 or 3 guys from work who want to borrow it since they want to try it out before “going digital”. The ease of getting started is greatly appreciated and the getting the basics down is dead simple.

The APP is what sets this apart and once you get the controllers set it does make slot car racing more accessible to younger drivers. Since most people will already have SPORT track just getting power base is great. For those though that want better control i.e. brakes there is a decent workaround available.

I would have loved the cars to actually slow and sputter like I have seen on other analog pit sets but I think the added technical complexity of that is outweighed by the ease-of-use of APP. The recommendations I made above would really turn this into a drop dead gorgeous APP that will really set it apart. Definitely a recommendation if you already have a Scalextric,SCX or Ninco set. (I actually have converter track for Cartronic <-> Scaley Classic as well 😉 )

Adding brakes:

Here is some information on using the ARC ONE powerbase and the SPORT powerbase (with brakes) together. YOU WILL VOID YOUR WARRENTY/GUARANTEE IF YOU DO THIS!!!

http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=77744&st=0

http://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/forum/post/view/topic_id/7984/?p=2

There is a discussion about using the PACER system but I have not tried it out yet.

Deutsche Version:

Eins Vorweg: Deutsch ist nicht meine Muttersprache, als bitte verzeiht den einen oder anderen Rechtschreibfehler.. J Danke!

Kleine EinfĂŒhrung: Oft wenn die Meinungen ĂŒber ein Produkt oder Service weit auseinander geraten, wĂŒnsche ich mir, ich wĂŒrde die Person besser persönlich kennen, um mir besser einen Eindruck zu verschaffen, ob ich eher seine Meinung teilen soll oder nicht.

Also zu meiner Person: Knapp ĂŒber 40 mit 2 Kinder (MĂ€dchen 9, Sohn fast 7) ich arbeite fast mein Leben lang in Europa, bin aber kein EuropĂ€er. J Ich bin hauptsĂ€chlich im IT Feld tĂ€tig. Von daher sind meine Bemerkungen eher technischer Natur.

Zum Slot Hintergrund: Meine erste Bahn war mit kleine Motorrad mit einer Metallkugel drin. Schwerkraft trieb sie an aber die Bahn hatte einen Schlitz! SpĂ€ter kaufte ich eine Carrera Car Racing Bahn von einem Kollegen. Ja, ich weiss, die Bahn hat keinen guten Ruf in Deutschland (zu unrecht, meiner Meinung nach) aber damit hat es angefangen. Mittlerweile bin ich auf Scalextric umgestiegen, habe aber die Carrera Proif Bahn wegen 1:24er Autos immer noch (die Innenspuren einer 4 spuriger Profi Bahn bietet mehr platz als Exclusiv ;.)). Ich kaufe hauptsĂ€chlich Autos um mit meinen Kindern Spaß zu haben. Wenn es nicht kaputt gehen soll, kommt es gar nicht auf die Bahn. Ich kaufe ehe gebrauchte Ware. Ich schĂ€tze, die meisten Leute haben ehe ein Mischmasch von Autos von verschiedener Hersteller und Zeitalter.

Eigentliche Rezession:

Ich kaufte mir den ARC Powerbase in England, weil der Preis ganz stark gefallen war. Ich wollte eigentlich auf den ARC AIR und den ARC PRO warten aber da ich vermute, das laesst auf sich warten und habe ich zugeschlagen.

Verpackung und Quick Start Guide:

Alles ist leicht und schön verpackt, hauptsĂ€chlich mit Karton und wenige PlastiktĂŒten. Der Quick Start Guide ist in Englisch, Deutsch, Französisch und NiederlĂ€ndisch .

Es gibt eine Beschreibung der Handcontroller (Drucker), wo meiner Meinung nach versĂ€umt wird zu erklĂ€ren, wie man die Höchstgeschwindigkeit der Autos einstellen kann. Mehr darĂŒber spĂ€ter.

Im Handbuch wird indirekt hingewiesen, dass man mindestens einen Standardgerade vor dem Powerbase einbauen soll. Das ist auch wichtig, denn die mitgelieferten Controller haben keine Bremse (mehr spÀter
.)

Im Fehlerbehebungsteil des Handbuches wird nicht erwĂ€hnt, dass das System nur mit Autos mit schwarzen Leitkielen funktioniert. Ich habe fast das ganze zurĂŒckgeschickt, bevor mir das einfiel!

Aufstellen und aufheizen:

Also Tablet verwende ich einen Applie Mini iPad der ersten Generation. Ich finde seine GrĂ¶ĂŸe optimal da der Bildschirm groß genug ist, um alles zu sehen aber klein genug, damit die Strecke nicht blockiert wird.

Meine Teststrecke war sehr klein mit eine Mischung aus R1 und R2 Kurven und ich habe Leitplanken daran gebaut, damit ich mich auf das App konzentrieren konnte und einfach losfahren (vollgas) rasen konnte.

Die Controller und Power Pack lassen sich ohne Probleme anschließen. Es sind die Controller der START Serie, die meiner Meinung nach eingestampft worden ist. Manche mögen ihre GrĂ¶ĂŸe nicht und meinen, sie seien zu klein. Mir und meinem Sohn passen sie aber.

Es gibt eine Einstellschraube am Controller, die verhindert, dass man Vollgas fahren kann. Wie man das macht ist nicht selbsterklĂ€rend und die Schraube fĂŒllt sich instabil und zerbrechlich an. Welche Richtung ich drehen soll war mir nicht klar. Feinjustieren war auch schwierig. Ich hatte das GefĂŒhl, beide Controller waren unterschiedlich. Damit die Autos nicht abflögen, musste ich sehr weit runterdrehen, dass sie teilweise nicht mal starten wollten. Ich habe mit einer Steckdosendimmer bessere Erfahrungen.

Die Controller sind OHNE Bremse. Das heißt, die Autos gleiten eine gute Standardgerade bevor sie stehenbleiben. Kinder werden es relativ viel ĂŒben mĂŒssen, bis es klappt. Boxenstops funktionieren nur wenn man zuerst ĂŒber den Sensor gefahren ist aber bevor man die Box verlĂ€sst, sprich, wer drĂŒber hinausschießt, muss noch eine Runde drehen. Ich erlaube die Kinder ihre Hand einfach hinzu halten, bis sie es können. Man keine eine Standard SPORT Powerbase einbauen und dann Bremsen benutzen. Mehr dazu unten


Erster Lauf:

Ich bin erst ein paar Runden ohne den App gefahren. Getestet habe ich mit Scalextric Porsche GT3, Mercedes CLK, Opel V8 DTM, Ford Taurus NASCAR vom Crash and Bash set , SCX

NASCAR Chevy Monte Carlo (1998 Version), Artin /Cartronic DTM car, Carrera Go! Formula eins

(Sebastian Vettel Red Bull), und ein Carrera Evolution Williams Formula Eins Auto.

Erst wenn man auf Let’s Race clickt fĂ€ngt die Bluetooth Verbindung an. Ich selektierte Quick Race und Driver One und landete bei einem Calibration Screen. Es befahl mir, das Auto fahren zu lassen und sobald das Auto fĂ€hrt, auf Yes oder No zu klicken. Da aber nichts geschah, egal ob ich Yes oder No klickte brach ich es ab. Der Screen kam nie wieder und ich weiss nicht, wozu er gut sein soll.

Ich wÀhlte ein 10-Runden Rennen und fuhr los. Bei der 7. Runden fiel mir, dass nicht registriert wurde. Dann erinnerte ich mich gelesen zu haben, dass IR Sensoren Problemen mit den blauen Leitkielen haben. Den Leitkiel zu fÀrben ist keine gute Idee denn A: Die Farbe wird abblÀttern und B: es funtioniert nicht immer. Es lohnt sich also nicht.

Alle Autos haben mit schwarzen Leitkielen haben funktioniert. Das Carrera GO! Auto’s Leitstift ist zu dick fĂŒr die SPORT Schiene aber es hat einigermaßen funktioniert. Das Artin/Cartronic Auto hat ein 6 Volt Motor und einen weissen FĂŒhrungsstift. Trotz bemalen des Stiftes hat es nicht funktioniert. Im Gegenteil, bei mehr als 1/3 der voller Leistung fing an das ARC App zu spinnen und so zu tun, als wĂ€ren beide Fahrer gleichzeitig in den Boxen und gleichzeitig Runden in weniger als 4 Sekunden zu fahren. Die Autos haben keine Entstöre oder Transistor an den Motoren und ich vermute, es wird eine elektromagnetisches Feld oder Ă€hnliches produziert, was die Sensoren stören. Man kann den Motor gegen 12-16 Volt austauschen und sogar das Auto mit einem Scalextric Leitkiel ausstatten.

Ich habe Scalexitrc Micro Autos, habe sie aber noch nicht ausprobiert, weil sie anders rum gedrahtet sind.

Der RundenzÀhler funktioniert prima! Ich habe IR Sensor RundenzÀhler und Dead Strip ausprobiert. Die IR reagiert viel zu sensibel auf Schatten. Der Dead Strip funktionierte nicht mit allen Autos. Hier geht alls ohne Probleme!

Ein Manko ist, dass wenn das Auto kein Benzin mehr hat, scheint einfach „Disqaulified“ auf dem Schirm. Kein Stottern, kein Stehenbleiben. Ich kenne andere analoge Lösungen, die das ermöglichen aber hier wird das wahrscheinlich nicht möglich sein.

Trotzdem der ARC APP ist eine gute Erweiterung und Bereicherung der analogen Slot Car Welt!

Der App an sich:

Ein was fiel mir sofort auf, wenn man ein Rennen gemacht hat (Endurance, Grand Prix etc.) wird dieses direkt als Auswahl bei dem Quick Race MenĂŒ. Leider werden diese einfach durchnummeriert: #1 Grand Prix (2 drivers), #2 Grand Prix (2 drivers) etc. Man kann z.B. nicht auf Anhieb sehen, viele Runden vorgesehen sind. Das Umbenennen der Rennen wĂ€re hilfreich z.B. GP, 20 Laps, No fuel .

Grand Prix, Endurance & Drag Race:

Alles hier klappt wie beschrieben, nur ein kleines Manko : man muss ein Scalextric Standardlayout (sprich ein Layout, was genau einem entspricht, das als Boxset verkauft wird) verwenden, wenn man Höchst- und Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit sehen will. Man kann im Track Viewer MenĂŒ sehen, welche Teile in welchen Layouts sind. Komischerweise gibt den App auch nicht beim Drag Racing eine Zeit aus, obwohl man immer angeben muss, wie lange die Strecke ist.

VorschlÀge:

  1. Ein direkter Absprung in den Track Viewer aus dem Race MenĂŒ
  2. Da das System die Anzahl der Teile (und ihrer LĂ€ngen) fĂŒr die Standardlayouts kennt, mĂŒsste es möglich sein, die Anzahle der Teile hĂ€ndisch einzugeben und das System rechnet die Geschwindigkeit aus.
  3. Das System erlaubt es, die Teile, die man hat einzugeben. Man kann sich auch eine liste e-mailen lassen, mit den Teilen die man noch benötigt. Schön wÀre, dass man die Layouts nach den schon vorhanden Teilen sortieren könnte. Ideal wÀre auch analoge Versionen der digitalen Schieneteilen.
  4. Gebt uns einen Track Editor! Der Track Designer auf scalextric.com ust alt und funktiniert nicht mehr so gut. Meine Kinder haben Puzzlespielen auf dem iPad, die sehr Àhnlich funktionieren. Man gibt ehe seine Scchienenteile ein. Wie wÀre es mit einen virtuellen Rundgang des Tracks? Das gab schon in 2004!
  5. Ich find die Hilfe Bubbles sollten sich bei der ersten Verwendung automatisch einblenden.
  6. Das Handbuch ist in Deutsch aber der App nicht
.
  7. Umbenennen der Rennen im Quick Race MenĂŒ (wie oben beschrieben)
  8. Man soll auch Artikel mit von frĂŒheren Kataloge eingeben können. Einen Art Wikipedia von Typen wĂ€re super. Die Community könnte da rasch Abhilfe schaffen!

Zusammenfassung:

Das ARC ONE Powerbase ist eine schöne Erweiterung eines jenen analogen Systems. Das grĂ¶ĂŸte VersĂ€umnis, ist dass die Autos nicht stehen bleiben aber in Anbetracht der einfachen Handhabung und schöne Verarbeitung ist das zu verschmerzen.

FĂŒr alle, die schon ein Scalextric (Classic oder SPORT) , SCX oder NINCO Bahn haben wĂ€re dies eine schöne Erweiterung. Ich habe sogar Adapterschienen fĂŒr Scalextric/SCX <-> Cartronic Revolution/The Club, was wiederum auch zwischen Cartronic Revolution/The Club <-> Carrera Profi gebaut werden können . J

Können J

Hier sind ein paar Anleitungen, wie man seine SPORT Anschlussschiene mit ARC ONE kombinieren kann und dadurch wieder Bremsen haben.

ACHTUNG! JEDE MODIFIKATION ERLISCHT JEGLICHE GARANTIE ANSPRÜCHE! ICH KANN NICHT DAFÜR VERANTWORTLICH GEMACHT WERDEN!

http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=77744&st=0

http://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/forum/post/view/topic_id/7984/?p=2

Ich ĂŒberlege, ob ich meinen PACER da evtl anschließe


Shifting… (Umschalten: Deutsch weiter unten)

May 27, 2015

Shifting
 (Umschalten: Deutsch weiter unten)

It has been over 5 years since my last post.

I decided to update it with something that has become very much my hobby over the past few years:

Slot cars

I think just about every boy has had a set at some time in his life.

My first set was actually a gravity-powered figure 8 with 2 motorcycles.

I found a picture of the bikes:

Bikes

The cycles had a ball bearing in the middle and the front tire acted as the guide blade/pin with the feet of the drivers sticking out to keep them on the track. The bikes were held in place at the start by a small wedge and by pushing down on a lever both were released more or less at the same time and they would race down the track.

I seem to remember one bike being slightly better than the other and even tinkering with them by trying things like putting oil on the ball bearing.

I also remember laying on my stomach watching the bikes zip around the track and how they would lean into the corners. I would also tip and lift the track to see how it affected the bikes.

In the near future I will be doing various articles about the hobby. While I know there are thousands of videos and webpages about the topic I tend to see a big gap between the people who put up the track around Christmas time and others that are more “serious” and will file away at a chassis to reduce the weight by .001 grams and get exited about a 1 one thousandths of a second improvement (this is by no means a bad thing, thanks to people like them we know more about the hobby and they are vital to keeping it alive) I think there are several of us out there that want to enjoy the hobby, particularly with our families.

I have been playing with my son (mostly) on several different systems and I think I have some new insights that others may find helpful.

I hope more people stop soon to find out more.

Da wir in Deutschland leben, werde ich auch einige BeitrÀge auf deutsch verfassen. Das Slotcar hobby, sprich Carrerabahn ist in Deutschland und im deutsch-sprachigen Raum sehr verbreitet. Ich bitte aber um VerstÀndnis, dass mir der eine oder andere grammatikalische Fehler unterlÀuft.. ich bin ja kein Muttersprachler. J

Avatar: A Sign of Times to come? Possibly….

January 5, 2010

So I finally got around to seeing Avatar. I saw it in 3D albeit in a smaller cinema and in German.

I normally try to see a movie in the native language whenever possible but here I was in a time crunch and I figured I more wanted the experience than anything else.

The theater was fairly small, above average for this part of Germany but definitely not huge.

If you want to REALLY enjoy this film see it on a BIG BIG screen ideally IMAX.

It is a very very good film. The colors, grading, interaction in the CGI environment are smooth and nearly flawless.

The sound is amazing as well.

But is it the groundbreaking-save-the-industry epic one keeps reading about?

To be honest, I’m not so sure.

In the theater I was at the 3D elements weren’t as vibrant/in-your-face as I had expected. There were very few “lookee I am in 3D!” moments. Apart form ordinance flying past your head, most of the 3D element were so fuzzy i.e. out of focus I could barely believe it was 3D.

Apart from that the story as has been told over and over fairly standard. Nevertheless, the 160 minutes fly by in no time.

I do see potential, but more fine tuning is needed, and a better story of course.

I am not dissapointed, just not elated…

How Different Things Can Be

June 3, 2009

I actually stumbled across this:
http://www.examiner.com/x-8616-Houston-Workplace-Examiner~y2009m6d1-Bad-interview-questions-Are-those-real
And I thought how interesting it that the difference between the US and Europe (specifically Germany and France) could be.
The first few questions of the “Let’s look at Okay and NOT okay questions:” section are actually mandatory entries on most applications, CVs (rĂ©sumĂ©s) in both Germany and France.
Your age, martial status, ethnicity and nationality are all requried on the documents.
On top of that they expect you to include a photo of yourself and if you are still a minor they expect to know what your parents do for a living (and if they are divorced).

Now before anyone cries racism or some other “ism” I think you have to understand that the attitude over here is that these are simply things that need filled out for “completeness”. While no one can ever be sure if the information is used to filter out candidates, I have never had the impression that it has.

In fact, much of that information is important ot improve your ability to get a job. In the public sectior, for example, a single mother would have a better chance of getting a job than a married man. Older people are preferred to younger people.

Ethnicity and religion don’t seem to figure into it as much as health (abilities/disabilities) and age.

Anyway, I just found it quite interesting that they list huge DON’T questions when this is considered mandatory information over here….

My First Blog: Sad News

January 13, 2009

For years I had wondered about this “blogging” thing.  Now I have become one of the masses.

When I signed up for this I wasn’t sure how long it would take to “get started” so I was thinking about what to write.

Lo and behold once I logged off my e-mail and activated my account I came across the news that Patrick McGoohan had died.

As a “gen-xer” (when was the last time you heard that expression?!) I obviously became aware of his work long after he had stopped being a mainstream name.  However I will never forget my introduction to him and his nigh-epich “The Prisoner”.

I was 15 and had set the VCR to record some Canadian show (being from Michigan we got the CBC and other Canadian TV thank goodness!).  For some reason I programmed it wrong (how could that have EVER happened  in the 80’s) and it recorded a good hour past the program I actually wanted to record.

The show it recorded was “The Prisoner”. It wasn’t the first in the 17-show series, I believe it “The Chimes of Big Ben”, which is a fairly more conventional show in the series with warders quite skillfully tricking No. 6 into nearly giving away his reason to resign.

The fact that the whole thing didn’t work out because of the wrong time I found very funny at the time. Some small, little detail that makes something that was likely in the works for months be a complete and utter failure.  The look, feel and music also struck and stuck with me.

I told my parents about it and they said they remembered the first running back in the late 60’s and early 70’s. Intrigued (I hadn’t quite gotten to the stage where I hated everything my parents did “just cuz”) I scanned local listings for more of the episodes.

About every time I started to forget about “The Prisoner” it would draw me back in again. While at college I found a USENET (remember that?) entry of an interview with him. The then-new Sci-Fi channel re-ran the series and it was released on VHS. Being a bit of an “indie/geek” video though it was fairly expensive (at my college there were often quarter [.25 USD$] PITCHER nights so money was always tight so I never got to see ALL the episodes until 1999 when I met an Englishmen from near Yorkshire who happened to have the series.

By then the Internet was in full swing and I was able to learn more than I ever thought possible about possible about the series, Dangerman/Secret Angent and of course McGoohan himself.

I have since bought the series on DVD (twice, one the original UK release and then the remastered) and do a search on it from time to time.

The most recent release was the 40th Anneversary edition. Having turned 35 last year that really struck me about how OLD the series was.  The other aspect was I found out about the DVD set via the Internet and there was a video preview. All this had transpired in the course of less than 10  years, let alone the quadruple amount of time.

When I show people “The Prisoner” it takes them a while to get past the dated “effects” but if they are patient enough to sit through an episode or two (particularly those that McGoohan had originally envisioned) they almost all have the same quizzical look on their face and immediately start to ask questions.

In the end, I think what makes this series unique is that it always ultiamtely forces us to question.

Question what is going on.

Question why we are doing what we are doing.

Question who we are.

It also forces us to realize that often facts are not set in stone, things change and therefore the answers to those questions do as well.

There are of course hundreds if not thousands of interpretations of the series but the above is just one that I feel is timeless and important to the human experience.

If you have never seen it, take a peek here.

Rest in Peace Mr McGoohan, you are indeed a Free Man now.